Day 29 and 30 I survived the trip to Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu!  First I will say that it is worth it to get there.  But if you learn nothing else from me at all, hear this - TAKE THE TRAIN.  

The train is relatively expensive, about 170 dollars round trip.  The only way to get into Aquas Calientes is to walk or by train.  I knew I would be walking supposedly 2.5 hours on mostly flat terrain.  It took me 3 hours and they failed to mention that the first 15 minutes is straight up.  I mean a mountain goat would think twice about doing this.  Ok, so I start my walk exhausted.  

But the rest should be easy, yes?  No!  

Crossing a train bridge with rusty panels that give and pop as you cross. Occasionally walking on railroad ties to get across a stream that are not evenly spaced and if you misstep you are falling into the river.  By this time I am tired and as usual not well coordinated and alone.  Yes alone.  The rest of the group is walking much faster then I can and they quickly leave me behind.  I am not particularly concerned as I am sure as soon as I hit town the guide will be there waiting for me.   I really liked walking in the forest alone except when I could hear animals rusting in the brush next to me.   I was really hoping they didn't have anything too dangerous. Well I made it to town but the last part was in the dark.  There is not much light and I do not see well at night so I am trying my best not to trip over something.

The guide is waiting, yes?  No!  So here I am in town but my papers do not say what hotel I am staying at and my group and guide are nowhere in sight.  I ponder my options.  Sit down and hope they come looking for me?  Find a spot near the river and sleep until morning then hope I can find them?  Knock on hotel doors until I can find a room?  This last one is the most comfortable option but I am afraid what if they are all sold out?  The first hotel I come to is 270 a night for the cheapest room.  Ugh!   But I explain my predicament to the front desk mgr.  He kindly calls the agency that booked my tour and got the name of my hotel.  The agency also said for me to wait there and he would send the guide for me.   Whew!  Catastrophe averted!

Also another potential catastrophe.  When checking in at Hydro Electrica I was asked for my passport.  I do not travel with my passport, I leave it in my room.  I have my drivers license.  The others on the van say they were told you cannot get into Machu Picchu without a passport.  So my stress levels rise as I think I have come this far to be turned back.  But no problem, everyone looks at my ID and passes me on.

When the guide comes we walk to the hotel which is nearly at the top of the street.  By the way all of Agua Calientes is built on the mountain.  So there are no flat parts and it is steep.  Makes San Francisco look easy.  I get up there and I am shown my room.  It is clean and nice and he says come back down in 30 minutes for dinner and an explanation of the tour in morning.  I just made it up and he wants me to do it again?  I am doubtful.  But after a few minutes rest I decide I can do it.  The plan in the morning is you get up by 4 am in order to walk up this mountain, 1.5 hours for the average person. Or you can buy a bus ticket to get to top by 6:30.  Which option do you think I took?  Yeah, I'm on that bus.  While riding the bus up and seeing now steep and how high it is I am so happy I made that choice.

Machu Picchu is a magical place for certain.  I arrived at sunrise.  Imagine being at the top of a tall mountain where the clouds are swirling around you.  Beautiful, breathtaking scenery everywhere you look.  The work that was involved to create this place is incredible.  When the Spaniards began to take over South America the Incas abandoned this site in order to preserve it for future generations.  The Spaniards were destroying the Inca temples and building over them their churches.  They did a good job, it stayed hidden until 1911 when and archeologist asked a farmer if there were any sites around.  He then paid this farmer 1 soles to escort him up there.  The pictures will show you but is nothing like standing there and looking around.  There are also a pack of llamas to admire on the grounds.

Ok here is why I say take the train and why I felt my life was in danger.   I was placed in a van that seats 12 and there were 12.  4 rows of 3 and barely enough space for the average body but no space to move your legs.  I did not know how long the trip would take but I thought well I can handle this for a while.  The trip is 7 hours.  Yes you read that correctly 7 hours crammed into a van like sardines.

But this is not the worst of it.

Now at first he stops after a while to let us out and stretch or take advantage of facilities.  First place had a surprisingly nice and clean toilet.  Now the van apparently has no air conditioning or heating.  At first we are cold but I have my jacket and his window is open.  I can also crack my window sideways to let in a little air.  Now after 2 hours we get on to a road that has hairpin turns, more like u turns then actual curves.  So while we are packed in there is no rest because we are constantly being swayed back and forth.  I counted to 20 between each alternate turn.  This continues for 3 hours.

Then we stop for lunch at a place that I feel is questionable.   But I haven't gotten sick so I guess that was ok.  Now after this town for the next 2 hours are on a 1 lane road with traffic going both ways so if another car came you or they may have to back up to a spot wide enough to pass.  This road is dirt and rocks.  So the ride is like the roughest wooden roller coaster.  His window is open so choking dust fills the van.  The road was still winding turns.  You must honk while approaching the turn in case there is a car coming the other direction.  The best part ?  This road is on the side of a mountain and on one side is usually a 100 ft drop or more to a solid rock river bed.   So one careless slip of the car and you are gone.  Our driver does this at usually about 50 mph.   So as you can imagine this upcoming walk of 3 hours was starting to look really good.

Now this was uncomfortable and scary.  But it even pales in comparison to the return back.

First there was his stop on the road to talk to a cute girl.  They flirted while we all were crammed in.  Just as I am ready to to tell him to move his butt he continues on.  On the way the back the drop is now on my side so I can more fully appreciate the danger.  As we move along I make note of the various crosses placed by loved ones of those who did not make it.  I wonder what my cross will look like and how long will it take for them to find us.  Because for obvious reasons this is not a well traveled road.

Ok, just hold on for these 2 hours it will get better.

Did I tell you I was blowing mud out of my nose. Because of the sand blowing in?  Oh, and I have never had my hair feel so bad.  It was like you find in dolls thrown in the bottom of the toy box.  I seriously thought I may have to just cut it. Ok survived the 2 hours there.  Now the next 3 hours of constantly being thrown back and forth.  Which by the way is also a road on the mountain with a perilous drop but at least it is two lanes so a little room for error.

This should get better right?

When asked about stops we are informed that we are short on time.  He is on a schedule and can not stop.  Ok now the front passenger is yelling at him that this is unacceptable.  Does the misery stop there?  Oh no.   Let us get into a rain that fogs up the drivers window so he cannot see.  Now I hear gasps from the others from time to time as they react to the car in front etc,  I am crammed into the back and cannot see ahead.  Probably a good thing.  He decides to stop at a roadside cafe type place and we can all get out while he washes his van.  We are so happy to be out of the van I could care less what he is actually doing.

The bathrooms here are disgusting.  Now it is getting cold so I put on my jacked which reeks of sand.  He makes another stop and we get out.  Where is the bathroom?  It is a shack next to the pig sty in the back, mind you it is pitch black.  A child holds a flashlight for us and in the shack is a hole in the floor.

Can it get any worse you ask?  Yes!  It can!

At that moment we hear a hissing sound as the front tire deflates.  So now, we sit outside in the cold wind while waiting for him to repair tire.  I am seriously considering hitchhiking.  Tire repaired on the road.  We finally got him to turn down the blaring obnoxious music.   He stops two more times, not to let us out but seemingly to conduct some sort of personal business.  But finally I make it back to Cusco, tired, cramped, starving.

I go straight to McDonalds because I want something fast and that I don't have to think about if it is safe.  I get 10 chicken nuggets and large fries and medium drink.  I am so tired I can only eat half of it.  I child wandering around trying to sell his gum and he is being asked to keep moving but lingers around.  I put my fries in the box with the rest of the nuggets and motion to him does he want it?  He did not hesitate to take it.  I grab a taxi and get home.  Grateful I am in one piece.  

So the moral is Machu Picchu is worth the trip, but TAKE THE TRAIN at whatever the costs.